Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, AZ

Due to the very limited cellular data in most of northern Arizona on AT&T partners we were unable to upload this blog until we got back into actual AT&T service.  Apparently Verizon covers the area well but not AT&T.  We expected to have service at the south rim of the Grand Canyon but again Verizon yes, AT&T NO.

Thursday 10/23 Chinle, AZ (pronounced Chin-lee)

We camped at Cottonwood Campground which is just inside the National Monument and is a Navajo Nation operated campground.  The campground is situated in a beautiful grove of Cottonwood trees near the Visitor Center.  At this time of year it is lightly used and is very peaceful.  No hookups exist but the sites in and around the Cottonwoods provide the choice of shaded or sunny sites with plenty of space between and around them.

  

Late in the afternoon after we were set up and settled a woman knocked on our door and was selling Navajo rock art with symbols that tell a story.  Linda bought one.  The woman was Paula Begay.  Later when we entered the campground we noticed a sign saying NO SOLICTING.  Oh well, I (Linda) loved her work and she was very good about explaining all the symbols. I couldn't resist.

Friday 10/24

Canyon de Chelly (pronounced dee-shay) was inhabited by various peoples for the last 5000 years; nomadic peoples, basketmakers, ancestral Puebloan people, Anasazi, Hopi, and finally the Navajo.

To see the canyon there are two rim roads; the north rim and south rim.  In addition you can hire a guide to take you into the canyon.  No access into the canyon is allowed without a guide or ranger.  The only exception is the 1 ½ mile one way White House trail into the canyon. It is approximately a 700’ descent and ascent returning.

We had read that driving the north rim road and its overlooks is better for photography in the morning and the south rim road and overlooks is better in the afternoon.  After doing both in that order I’m not sure I agree.

We started on the north rim road about 9 am to see the three overlooks.  Each required a descending trail to the edge of the canyon ranging up to ¼ mile.

At each overlook parking lot there were Navajo selling jewelry and various rock art as well as a few other things.  At one Linda told them that she had already purchased one from Paula Begay.  They chuckled and said something like,  Walla Begay.  Later we found out why.

North Rim Road Overlooks.

South Rim Overlooks.

At one of the overlooks Linda purchased another piece or rock art.  The artist’s name was Roger Begay.  We asked if he knew Paula Begay and he laughed and said the name is like Smith or Johnson.  We decided in our sampling that everyone we met was a Begay. 

Linda with her purchase and the artist.

There are still a number of Navajo that farm the canyon floor.

We had planned to return to Interstate 40 and go to Petrified Forest but decide skip it and take a shorter northern route through Kayenta, Tuba, and Cameron to the Grand Canyon tomorrow.